Oligopeptides

Oligopeptides are linear peptide chains consisting of up to approx. 10 amino acids, which are connected by < 10 amino acids (mostly alpha-amino acids) via peptide bonds (amide bonds) (polypeptides - consist of > 10 amino acids.

Macropeptides - consist of > 100 amino acids). Numerous oligopeptides occur naturally and have very specific physiological properties, e.g. as peptide hormones, kinins, amanitins, toxins or peptide antibiotics.

The oligopeptides are systematically named according to the number of amino acids they contain:

2 amino acids: dipeptide

3 amino acids: tripeptide

4 amino acids: Tetrapeptide

5 amino acids: pentapeptide

6 amino acids: hexapeptide

7 amino acids: heptapeptide

8 amino acids: Octapeptide

9 amino acids: nonapeptide

10 amino acids: Decapeptide

From a functional point of view, the oligopeptides used in cosmetics can be divided as follows:

Peptides with stimulating effect on collagen synthesis: they are also used as matrikines or collagen boosters. Known representative: palmitoyl pentapeptide.

Peptides affecting the neuromuscular synapses: these lead to muscle relaxation and associated smoothing of wrinkles. A prominent representative is the acetyl hexapeptide.

Peptides with hormonal action: cytokines and growth factors such as fibroblast growth factor (FGF), signalling molecules that control various biological processes. They are usually produced biotechnologically using genetically manipulated bacteria and encapsulated liposomally.

Non-specific oligopeptides: Soya oligopeptides and oligopeptides resulting from hydrolysed milk proteins act on the skin surface. The partial breakdown of these oligopeptides produces free amino acids which support the natural NMF.