Hydrolyzed keratin (inci)

Hydrolysed proteins, such as hydrolyzed keratin, are widely used in the cosmetics industry (used in hair and skin care products).

Although conventional protein hydrolysates are produced by exposing the protein source to harsh chemical processes, there is a growing interest in obtaining such hydrolysates by enzymatic hydrolysis. Keratin peptides are often obtained from spring proteins by exposure to keratinases of Bacillus subtilis AMR (Villa AL et al. 2013). The aim is to obtain a high degree of hydrolysis and a final product containing a large variety of free amino acids.

Hydrolysed keratin reduces static charges by neutralizing the electrical charge on the surface (e.g. the hair). This makes the hair easier to comb. Furthermore, hydrolysed keratin preserves the moisture of the skin or cosmetic product. When applied, it forms a coherent film on skin, hair or nails. In hair cosmetics (e.g. in hair shampoos or conditioners) the active ingredient makes the hair easier to comb and makes it smoother. The hair becomes soft and shiny and gains more volume.

In rare cases, protein hydrolysates cause allergic reactions(contact urticaria - Niinimäki A et al. 1998).

1. Eslahi N et al (2013) An investigation on keratin extraction from wool and feather waste by enzymatic hydrolysis. Prep Biochem Biotechnol 43:624-648.
2. Villa AL et al (2013) Feather keratin hydrolysates obtained from microbial keratinases: effect on hair fiber. BMC Biotechnol 13:15.
3. Niinimäki A et al. (1998) Contact urticaria from protein hydrolysates in hair conditioners. Allergy 53:1078-1082.
4. Noda J et al (1996) The physicochemical and biopharmaceutical properties of fragmented keratin as a new drug carrier. B