Betaine (inci)

Betaine is a secondary plant substance that occurs in many wild plants. Betaine is also found in crustaceans and shellfish. As a so-called "compatible solute" it increases the salt and drought tolerance of plants and protects their cell proteins from denaturation. Compatible solutes are substances that are produced by cells, e.g. when the salt content of the environment is increased, in order to balance the osmotic pressure within the cell and protect it from damage.

Chemically, betaine (also called trimethylglycine or glycine betaine) is a quaternary ammonium compound with three methyl groups. Betaine is a derivative of the amino acid glycine and is formed as a by-product of sugar production from sugar beet molasses (Beta vulgaris, hence "betaine"). Betaine is an important methyl group donor in transmethylation processes in the organism.

Cosmetics: Betaine is used in cosmetic recipes. In urea containing formulations it is used for the stabilization of urea (Hornstein OP et al. 1985). Betaine has an antistatic effect (static charges are reduced; electrical charges on the surface of skin and hair are neutralized). Furthermore, the substance acts as a hair conditioning agent (hair becomes easier to comb, smoother, softer and shinier and gains more volume) and as a viscosity regulator (increases or decreases the viscosity of cosmetic products).

Betaine compounds in cosmetic products are:

• Decyl betaine (INCI). Function: antistatic, surfactant, foam-increasing
• Lauramidopropyl betaine (INCI). Function: Surfactant, foam forming, foam enhancing, antistatic, hair conditioning, cleansing, viscosity regulating, skin conditioning
• Lauryl betaine (INCI). Function: antistatic, surfactant, hair conditioning, skin conditioning, cleansing
• Myristamidopropyl betaine (INCI). Function: antistatic, viscosity regulating, surfactant, skin caring, cleansing, hair conditioning
• Myristyl betaine (INCI). Function: antistatic, viscosity regulating, surfactant, skin caring, cleansing, hair conditioning, foam enhancing
• Oleamidopropyl betaine (INCI): Function: antistatic, surfactant, cleansing, foam boosting, hair conditioning, skin care
• Oleyl betaine (INCI). Function: antistatic, surfactant, cleansing, foam boosting, hair conditioning, skin conditioning
• Polytetrafluoroethylene acetoxypropyl betaine (INCI). Function: hair conditioning
• Soyamidopropyl betaine (INCI). Function: Surfactant, cleansing, hair conditioning, skin caring
• Stearamidopropyl betaine (INCI). Function: antistatic, surfactant, hair conditioning, cleansing, foaming, skin care
• Stearyl betaine (INCI). Function: antistatic, surfactant, hair conditioning, skin conditioning, foaming

The collective term "betaines" is also generally used to describe a group of organic-chemical compounds which carry both a positive and a negative charge in their molecular structure. They thus appear uncharged to the outside (see also sultaines). Various betaines are used as surfactants in cosmetic products (see e.g. Decyl betaine).

The name-giving compound of this group of substances is betaine (generally, glycine betaine is equated with betaine).

Preparation: Tego® Natural

1. Hornstein OP et al (1985) External therapy of skin diseases. Georg Thieme Publisher Stuttgart S. 163